surf camp

buenes noche

hello to everyone. sorry, i haven't blogged in awhile but i've been busy with surf camp. bryan zinski flew in ten days ago, then jason and john two days later, and from there it was full surf camp mode when the waves were good. i had the boys up before dark on the good days and on the small days we surfed, snorkeled, ate, and had a steady supple of beer flowing. what else do you expect of surf camp at quez, cora, and sienna's crib?

here's some shots that zinski snapped before our first session at double overhead empty table rock.

these shots are from tres palmas. z shot these couple shots from the hill. it's amazing that we have these cause z was more amped to surf than a 15 yr old grom on his first tropical experience. he defenitaly held it down all day from surfing a slabby right to solid tres.

my homie, enda, from ireland gets the bravado award. he snapped his leash box the first session at tres and had to swim most the way in. after that we went to my house and he found an old gun on the bottom floor, spider webs, dust, and all. he cleaned it up and preceded to talk off on one of the gnarliest ones of the evening session. (except for the cleanup we took on the head). the thing was a mutant just thick, huge, and steep. the young irish lad didn't hesitate, he simply turned began paddling and took off on a solid twenty footer (face that is, ten foot back). when i saw him paddling i said outloud, "he's f ing nuts'', but he made the drop. he also went over the falls on a giant set earlier in the day that we tried to catch together.

the place is scary but one of the most beautiful places on earth. the water color, fifty foot depth, monster swells, and long paddle all add charachter to the mysto outer reef. i can't wait to surf it again.

quez