chambers

the swell down here finally got big. i surfed sandys left this morning. it must have took me a half hour to get out. i contemplated taking turning around and taking a denial, but finally made it out and got a few. we drove to gas chambers after. i want to say we scored (my friend andy and i) but we mainly tried to avoid bouncing off the cliff that was looming ten or so yards infront of the take off zone. you can't see it in the pics, but it was definatly sketch. the tide was high which kinda killed it, but no worries cause tommorrow it'll be bigger and dead low tide at 6 a. m.. i'm so excited i don't even want to sleep right now. i love this wave!!!!

and really? this guy isn't even looking at this spitting spinning dream right in front of him